Cannonau, Fire and the Coghinas Valley

Why the wine we pour at dinner comes from the same valley you ride through — and what to drink with fire-cooked Sardinian beef.

Open fire dinner at the basecamp vineyard

Cannonau is Sardinia's red. Thick-skinned, sun-hardened, high in polyphenols, and grown here long before anybody wrote about longevity diets. In the Coghinas river valley it takes on an earthier line: dark fruit, dried herbs, black olive.

Vineyard as basecamp

Tenute Costadoria is both where you sleep and where the wine comes from. The rows start where the parking ends. Riders who take the Anglona back roads in the morning are literally drinking the landscape they crossed.

What we pour

Costadoria Riserva for the long evenings, Ampurias Riserva when there is beef on the fire — dark earth and black olive tapenade against charred fat is hard to beat. Vermentino from the sea side of the estate for lunch, because nobody should ride the afternoon on a heavy red.

The fire

Dry-aged local beef, open flame, salt, and very little else. Sardinian cooking does not need decoration. Neither do the roads.